Weaving in Beauty

Explore the beauty and harmony of Navajo weaving

How to Identify Navajo Textiles

This section could also be called “How to Avoid Being Ripped Off on eBay”.   Every morning at about 6 AM, I get some coffee, and wander out to eBay to do a simple search for the words “Navajo rug” and “Navajo weaving”.  On any given day, there are 250 to 400 hits from those words.  The pieces offered range from out and out copies of Navajo woven pieces (directly copied from a book no less), to real treasures that have been rescued from an attic and placed up for auction with a description like “Navajo? weaved rug” (grammar isn’t an eBay requirement).

In between, the offerings range from great pieces from reputable dealers to out and out frauds.  I used to occasionally ask an eBay seller how they determined the authenticity of a textile, but I’ve got better things to do than argue with people.  Rugs appearing to be Navajo can also be found in many antique stores, thrift stores, yard sales, and swap meets.  I’ve also encountered people who have been given Navajo rugs that the owner no longer wanted.  I don’t understand why I am never around when free rugs are being given out, but that’s a different story.  Anyhow, here are some guidelines that will help you determine whether you are looking at a Navajo textile or not.

1. MoRug Being Wovenst Navajo rugs do not have a fringe. By most, I mean 99.5%.  If the piece you’re looking at has a fringe, you ask that seller how they determined that the piece was Navajo made.   I don’t care if they think their sainted grandmother bought the rug from J.L. Hubbell, if it has fringe, it probably isn’t Navajo.   Navajo rugs are warped in a continuous figure eight technique and the weaving fills the entire warp.  The picture at left shows a rug being woven.  If you look carefully at the ends of a Navajo rug, you will see the ends of these loops.

There are two exceptions to the “no fringe” rule.  Germantown rugs have a fringe that is added on after the rug is woven.  They are rare and there’s a good picture of one of them at left.  The fringe on an antique Germantown may be partially worn away, or gone altogether, but this does not hurt the structure of the textile, since the fringe is an add-on.  The other exception to the rule is a Gallup throw.  These small piecesJennie Slick Germantown Rug about usually 18″ by 24″ and are woven in the Gallup, New Mexico area.   A typical Gallup throw is woven on a cotton warp, and the weaving is cut off and knotted rather than finished in the traditional way so there is a fringe on one end only.  There are thousands of Gallup throws out there that were sold to train passengers along the Sante Fe railway.  They make a nice addition to a collection and usually will cost $40 to $50, although I’ve seen them go for $250 on eBay.

2. Navajo rugs do not have ridges at the ends. On occasion, someone who is trying to pass a rug off as Navajo or just make it look more Navajo will take the time to actually run the warps back into the rug to eliminate the fringe, but this creates ridges in the ends of the piece.  If you separate the weft yarns slightly, you’ll see the doubled up warps.  The next time I see a good example of this, I’ll add a picture of it.  This is very common in some Ye’i rug copies that are done in Mexico.

Detail of a side selvage cord.3. Navajo rugs often have a side selvage cord. Navajo weavers often use a twisted side selvage cord to help them maintain a straight edge.  The presence or absence of a side selvage cord is not as definite an indicator as a fringe, but if the cord is there, it builds the case that it’s Navajo.  Mexican weavers maintain straight sides on their pieces by using three or four warps together, or even a single very thick warp or even rope.  If you see a rug with outside warps that are visibly thicker, look at theWooly warp ends of the rug for fringe or for evidence that the warp ends have been sewn back in to eliminate the fringe.

4. Navajo rugs usually have a wool warp. If you’re not an expert in fibers, it may be difficult for you to tell what kind of warp was used, but in general cotton and linen are smoother than wool.  Wool is, well, wooly.  As you can see from the picture at the right, it has little fibers that stick out from the warp threads.  Remember that there is one genuine Navajo rug (the Gallup throw) that is woven with a cotton warp.  Also bear in mind that cotton was widely used as warp in the late 1800′s.   Look at the other indicators to determine the authenticity of the piece, but use the fiber content of the warp as part of your authentication.

Below you’ll see master weaver Jennie Slick with a small finished rug.  It’s easy to see that it has no fringe, and the side selvage cord shows up well against the dark wool in the background.  This rug has all of the hallmarks of a genuine Navajo rug.  It is all wool, including the warp, has no fringe and has a side selvage cord.

Jennie Slick shows a finished rug

Finally, at right, is a nice Zapotec rug.  You can see the fringe at the bottom.  This is the type of rug that is most often confused with a Navajo weaving, and you can see why if you don’t know about the fringe.  The yarns for these rugs are often handspun and handyed and there is a great deal of skill involved in weaving them; they’re just not Navajo.  The color choices are not typically Navajo, and there is markedly less pattern than you would usually see in a typical Navajo piece that is the same size. Zapotec rug

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There are currently 49 responses to “How to Identify Navajo Textiles”

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  1. 1 On March 22nd, 2009, Stanley Burger said:

    Thank you for this information. Tho I live in Saratoga ,N.Y. I’m hooked on the beautiful
    weavings from the Southwest,esp.Navajo. My pocket book is small so all I can afford are small weavings 24″x30″ and smaller. I have Purchased directly from the weaver (3) pcs. &
    found another (5) in antique shops and flea markets from NY to FLa and across the south.

    posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 4:47 pm

  2. 2 On June 23rd, 2009, connie said:

    What about a rug that is seamed down the center? It appears to be original with the weaver and done extremely well.

    posted on June 23rd, 2009 at 6:55 am

  3. 3 On June 24th, 2009, Mary Walker said:

    This type of textile is most probably not a Navajo rug. The only type of Navajo textile that’s seamed is a biil dress. You most likely have a piece that was woven in Mexico or New Mexico. Some of these are joined with extreme skill and are quite valuable.

    posted on June 24th, 2009 at 9:00 pm

  4. 4 On September 12th, 2009, Paula Kobernick said:

    Thank you for your very informative information. I have a smallish rug that I got from my Dad before he died. He lived in Arizona for many years and purchased a rug with a “roadrunner as the subject. It appealed to me a lot but we have never had the right place to keep it. I’m thinking of sellng it now.
    It’s 28″ wide by 32″ long. has no fringe but 4 braided ties that exit from the corners and are each about 4″ long. The body of the rug is medium gray, it’s divided into 3 sections in the pattern. The road runner is in the middle section has black legs, tail and head except for white spot for eyeball and brown center for pupil. Body is rust colored wing is reddish brown.The bird is in an exaggerated speedy looking position — kind of like you’d expect the cartoon character to be looking like.
    The rug is in very good “like new” condition and appears to be done very well. I’m sure it is wool. I think my Dad purchased this in the late 60′s or 70′s. It is dramatic and can stand alone as art.

    posted on September 12th, 2009 at 4:24 pm

  5. 5 On June 27th, 2010, Bob Schaefer said:

    Thank you for providing this valuable information. I am northern Paiute and was born about 10 miles from where almost all Panamint baskets were made. I have an extensive collection of Panamint baskets, both from Death Valley and the Owens Valley, however, I have no knowledge in Navajo textiles. When my mother passed away, I inherited a large truck with many early textiles in it that belonged to my grandmother, I do not know how or where she obtained these textiles. I would love to be able to identify just what I have, it is not practical to travel around with a large number of textiles looking for assistance. Your suggestions or comments are most appreciated, and thank you again for providing the information in your website.
    Bob

    posted on June 27th, 2010 at 9:58 pm

  6. 6 On June 29th, 2010, Mary Walker said:

    Thank you for the kind words on the site. If can send along some pictures, I may be able to give you an idea of what you have.

    posted on June 29th, 2010 at 12:38 pm

  7. 7 On September 18th, 2011, BEN MC GOWAN said:

    Hi, I bought a Large Indian design blanket this last weekend at Estate sale. Was wondering if you might be able to help me identify who might have made it? I will add pic below to see if you might be able to help me…I just didnt know enough about it to call it Navajo, after reading your articles..This is my ebay page link if you want to look at more pics to help you…mtr1309a……………Thank you for your time….Ben.

    posted on September 18th, 2011 at 3:16 pm

  8. 8 On September 18th, 2011, BEN MC GOWAN said:

    Added the website link in this email…..Thank you…..Ben.

    posted on September 18th, 2011 at 3:19 pm

  9. 9 On September 24th, 2011, Judy said:

    This is similar to my Grandmother’s rug…hers has a large yellow blossom in the middle and is about 8×6 feet.
    I know she bought it at the Gallup Trading Post in the mid 50′s. I always thought it was Navajo, but if you find out what your is, could you let me know?

    posted on September 24th, 2011 at 7:05 pm

  10. 10 On September 26th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    This is rug was woven in the Saltillo area of Mexico. It is not Navajo.

    posted on September 26th, 2011 at 12:39 pm

  11. 11 On September 26th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    If it’s that similar, it is probably also from Mexico and not Navajo.

    posted on September 26th, 2011 at 12:41 pm

  12. 12 On October 8th, 2011, Cindy Dolitka said:

    I recently purchased a 19″x50″ blanket, it is beautiful but I don’t believe to be Navajo. The warp is not wool might be cotton. Where the pattern changes color, they do not interlock, there is actually a gap or opening in the blanket? The ends are damaged and coming unwoven. I’d love to know what I actually have? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    posted on October 8th, 2011 at 2:19 pm

  13. 13 On October 8th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    Your weaving is a kilim. They are woven all over the Middle East and the weaving style is even used in parts of eastern Europe. Someone who works with Oriental rugs can probably tell you more.

    posted on October 8th, 2011 at 7:55 pm

  14. 14 On October 14th, 2011, Neale said:

    We just inherited this rug and was wondering if you had any idea where it comes from. Thanks for any input!

    posted on October 14th, 2011 at 7:47 pm

  15. 15 On October 14th, 2011, Neale said:

    Another close up picture…the rug is about a 5 foot by 7 foot

    posted on October 14th, 2011 at 7:49 pm

  16. 16 On October 24th, 2011, Philip Thomas said:

    Just wanted to know where this blanket might have been woven. It was given to my father in the early 1950′s. It has a fringe and it has a midline seam that makes it look double woven. Any clues. I do not want to sell it.

    posted on October 24th, 2011 at 11:28 am

  17. 17 On October 24th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    Philip, please send me a picture of the blanket so that I can tell you for sure. It sounds like a blanket from Mexico or the Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. My email address is mary.walker@weavinginbeauty.com.

    posted on October 24th, 2011 at 3:12 pm

  18. 18 On November 1st, 2011, John said:

    I thought this was a Navajo rug, but the pattern seems not quite right. Any help would be appreciated. I will keep the rug because it is attractive to me.

    posted on November 1st, 2011 at 10:03 am

  19. 19 On November 1st, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    John, I don’t see a picture. You can post it with another comment or send one to me at mary.walker@weavinginbeauty.com.

    posted on November 1st, 2011 at 10:12 am

  20. 20 On December 5th, 2011, Thomas R. Ford said:

    My wife and I purchased a Navajo rug or tapestry From the Red Rock Canyon Trading Post located at the base of Bryce Canyon National Park where I was a seasonal naturalist in the late 60,s. We were told that the weaving was a Two Gray Hills done by Susie or Lucy (Tom) who was mentioned in the Arizona Highwys of c. that time. Could you help us with how to obtain the verifcation and identity of the weaving. I understand that the Susie Tom family would like to purchase the return of their weavings.
    Sincerely, Thomas R. Ford

    posted on December 5th, 2011 at 5:07 pm

  21. 21 On December 6th, 2011, Judy Burton said:

    I have had this rug (approx 7×4) for 40 years and it was supposedly old when I bought it in Salt Lake. It is a wee bit worn and needs to be mended, but I wanted to know if it was worth the investment.
    Thanks. Judy

    posted on December 6th, 2011 at 4:59 pm

  22. 22 On December 6th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    Judy, it looks at least 30 to 50 years older than it was when you got it, making it 70 to 90 years old. it’s hard to be more specific with out a more detailed look at the wool. It probably came from the Two Grey Hills area. The decision on conservation is very personal. If the goal is to sell the rug, I advise people to leave that decision up to the next owner. I’d need more detailed pictures to estimate the repair costs.

    posted on December 6th, 2011 at 6:52 pm

  23. 23 On December 6th, 2011, Mary Walker said:

    I have suggested that Thomas contact Mark Winter at the Toadlena Trading Post.

    posted on December 6th, 2011 at 6:53 pm

  24. 24 On January 12th, 2012, David Garrett said:

    Hi Mary,
    Love the website and the info. Hate to ask, but I also have rug ID question. Inherited this several months ago, and I have not a clue about warp or weave or anything related to rug making. Ive been to several sites just looking for info, and had no luck. Not really finding pattern match. It is 5’4″ by 7’9″ and if you have any info that would be great. Even if it’s not Navajo, I love this rug and it has become a perfect addition to my home:)
    Thanks for your time,
    Sincerely,
    David

    posted on January 12th, 2012 at 11:43 am

  25. 25 On January 13th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    David sent me some pictures, and we found that his rug is dhurry from India or Pakistan.

    posted on January 13th, 2012 at 3:34 pm

  26. 26 On February 7th, 2012, Carol Totten said:

    My grandfather left me a Navaho rug or throw, I don’t know what I have. Could you help me. Size is about 3 X 5. gray and dark blue in color. I’m sorry these are the only pictures.

    posted on February 7th, 2012 at 4:36 pm

  27. 27 On February 7th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    It’s a little hard to tell for sure, but it looks like a saddleblanket style, probably 1920′s-1930′s.

    posted on February 7th, 2012 at 4:39 pm

  28. 28 On March 1st, 2012, Susan said:

    Hi Mary,

    Really like your website and all the information! Was hoping you could help us. We’ve had this rug for years and don’t know anything about it. Could you please tell us what we have and how old it might be or anything else you might know about it? It measures approximately 67″ x 54″ Thank you very much.

    Kind Regards,
    Susan

    posted on March 1st, 2012 at 5:10 pm

  29. 29 On March 2nd, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    Susan, based on what I can see of the design and the wool, this rug dates back to at least the 1920′s but was more probably woven between 1900 and 1915. The practice of splitting a motif into different color zones is one that goes back to the Transitional period (1868-1890) and suggests that the weaver or the person that she learned from wove blankets during that period. The weaving is in good condition considering the age. It isn’t possible to tell where it was woven or to determine the name of the weaver. I hope that helps!

    posted on March 2nd, 2012 at 10:48 am

  30. 30 On March 9th, 2012, Dwarka Bonner said:

    The photo is of a 6′ x 7’7″ piece. As you can see, it has some damage. 10 years ago I sewed it to a teepee pole which seems to be supporting it nicely. The rug is made of somewhat coarse (but consistent) wool. The warp appears to be white wool and the selvedge edge warps are of equal thickness. At each end a heavier final weft spirals through the warp loops. I expect it is Navajo but have been unable to determine from where or when. Your observations would be much appreciated. What dyes would have been used for the red and the dull gold? Can you suggest how we might find someone to repair the damage and clean it, someone whose work would be of a suitable high caliber?

    Answer: It’s an early Two Grey Hills rug woven between 1910 and 1930. Please contact me directly for information on repairs and appraisal.

    posted on March 9th, 2012 at 10:55 am

  31. 31 On March 11th, 2012, Sandi Johnson said:

    Hello-does anyone have information on our old rug/coverlet? Picture shown

    posted on March 11th, 2012 at 10:30 am

  32. 32 On March 13th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    It is clearly not Navajo. I think it was woven on some kind of a Jacquard loom (an industrial loom), so it may not meet the definition of handwoven.

    posted on March 13th, 2012 at 10:40 am

  33. 33 On March 13th, 2012, Dan Di said:

    Hi, Can anyone help me identify this rug? it is small and an odd shape not being totally square. 19 1/2″ by 17 1/2 by 17 1/2″ by 17 1/2″. thxs

    posted on March 13th, 2012 at 5:11 pm

  34. 34 On March 13th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    It is not Navajo. It’s a needlepoint design.

    posted on March 13th, 2012 at 5:51 pm

  35. 35 On March 14th, 2012, dan di said:

    any ideas on what tribe may have hade it?

    posted on March 14th, 2012 at 1:33 pm

  36. 36 On March 14th, 2012, dan di said:

    also you say needlepoint but the back of appears more like a rug than a needlepoint and there was no patterned sheet it was woven on

    posted on March 14th, 2012 at 1:38 pm

  37. 37 On March 14th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    It’s not a Native American piece. It comes from the Middle East probably from northwestern Iran or Azerbaijan.

    posted on March 14th, 2012 at 6:40 pm

  38. 38 On March 14th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    I should have called it a soumak stitch. You can read more about it here. It’s a form of weft wrapping and usually done with a needle. Someone who deals in Oriental rugs could give you a better idea of the origin and value.

    posted on March 14th, 2012 at 6:43 pm

  39. 39 On March 14th, 2012, dan di said:

    THANK YOU MARY KIND REGARDS

    posted on March 14th, 2012 at 6:58 pm

  40. 40 On March 24th, 2012, Diana D. said:

    Hi Mary, I am in NYC. About 4 years ago I found a folded rug that was among some trash on a curb near Broadway. Embarrassing but true. It is definitely woven,not printed.I took it home because it had an ethnic look to it. The rug is very thin and measures 8’3″ X 5’6″, the rug and its fringes feel and look like cotton not wool. It is definitely woven,not printed. I thought it was too pretty to step on so I kept it folded in the closet instead of using as a rug.I am now looking at it again and have done some internet research for 2 days. I think it is a Zapotec (or a fake Zapotec). It has symbols of crosses and birds on it. I don’t know what the pointed symbols are (trees? arrows?). I would greatly appreciate any information you can provide. Thank You. I love the Navajo rugs shown on this website, they are gorgeous. I wish I could fly to the Indian markets and buy the framed miniatures and the rug with the horses on it!

    posted on March 24th, 2012 at 3:50 pm

  41. 41 On March 28th, 2012, Diana D. said:

    UPDATE: I finally determined what my rug is after seeing pictures of almost identical rugs online with same symbols. It is a Tribal Persian Kilim rug. It is not a Zapotec. It is flatwoven and made of both cotton and wool .

    posted on March 28th, 2012 at 4:22 pm

  42. 42 On April 10th, 2012, Teshna said:

    I have enjoyed your website and knowledge greatly. I am asking my Pauite husband today if he will help me build a loom. I have always wanted to build a rug of love or story for my children. Hopefully he will help me..

    posted on April 10th, 2012 at 6:04 am

  43. 43 On April 26th, 2012, Katy said:

    Hi there,

    I’ve enjoyed your website. I stumbled across it last night while trying to get some history on a rug we have. My husband’s grandmother bought it from a Navajo in 1927 while traveling out west. He was always under the impression that it was an authentic Navajo rug, but once I read your website, I realized it is not. Could you leave me in the right direction as to where it might be from?

    Thank you,

    Katy

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 7:40 am

  44. 44 On April 26th, 2012, Katy said:

    Hi Mary,

    I’ve enjoyed your website. I stumbled across it last night while trying to get some history on a rug we have. My husband’s grandmother bought it from a Navajo in 1927 while traveling out west. He was always under the impression that it was an authentic Navajo rug, but once I read your website, I realized it is not. Could you leave me in the right direction as to where it might be from?

    Thank you for your time,

    Katy

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 7:45 am

  45. 45 On April 26th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    Katy, thank you for the kind words about the site. Although you sent me a high resolution picture, there are some details that I can’t see well enough to tell you definitively what your rug is. To do that, I need a clear close-up of a small area of the weaving, say about six square inches. I would also like to see close-ups of the fringe area at both ends and a close-up from the sides of the rug that don’t have fringe. My first guess is that the piece was woven in the Middle East and that it’s actually a kilim or soumak, but I can’t tell for sure. What an interesting story and an interesting textile!

    UPDATE: Katy, I can say definitively that it is not a Navajo weaving, but I can’t tell you what it is. The fringes on the ends look like they were added after the piece was finished, but they look like they match some of the yarns that were used in the construction of the rug. The design geometry doesn’t look Navajo at all, but the design, technique and coloration don’t really match with any of my reference materials from the Middle East, although I suspect that we’ll find out that it’s some type of soumak from somewhere in the Caucasus. I’ve submitted the pictures to an appraiser’s group that I belong to and usually somebody recognizes the item after about a week. When I find out, I’ll let you know.

    Here’s what Ii can tell you
    • The yarns all look hand spun
    • The fringing appears to have been added after the piece was woven
    • The closest the I can come on technique is soumak, but I can’t identify a region where the weaving may have been done
    • It may have been USED by a Navajo as a Sunday saddle blanket, which is what I thought it might be when I first looked at it

    I’ll let you know when I find out anything else.

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 9:05 am

  46. 46 On April 26th, 2012, Katy said:

    That would be wonderful. Here is a close up of a corner with fringe. I hope they will help. Regardless of where it is from, the wild colors have really grown on me and look good in my daughters room.

    I took a few pictures, but it looks like I can only add one at a time. Let me know if you would like to see any others. I took one of the back, too.

    Thank you for the help!

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 9:41 am

  47. 47 On April 26th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    You can send the pictures to my email address at mary.walker@weavinginbeauty.com.

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 9:41 am

  48. 48 On April 26th, 2012, Jim Reid said:

    Hi,
    I live in Victoria B.C. Canada.I found six of these at an estate sale in Seattle.They are about 36 inches square. Unfortunately, as you can see, they have been cut to use as chair upholstery. I know nothing about rugs but a couple of people have suggested that they are Navajo.I have sent two more images to your email address. What do you think?

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 4:44 pm

  49. 49 On April 26th, 2012, Mary Walker said:

    Well, from what I can see, no Navajo weavings were harmed in the production of the chair covers, but some Indian dhurries were. Dhurries are flat weaves and share some design elements with Navajo weaving as well as with kilim weaves done in many parts of the Middle East.

    posted on April 26th, 2012 at 8:33 pm

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    Latest on Mon, 04:10 pm

    Raymon: I have a blanket simialr to the pink blanket. My dad's family had sheep. Every year they would gather the wool and take it to Utah Woolen mills and make beautiful wool blankets. Similar to Pendleton blankets, in many different colors. Love the turquoise jewlrey. My mom has a big beaded bag of it that I hope I get a few peices of (she's half Native American) She finds it kind of amusing that Native American prints etc. are "in" right now.

    Remigio: Way to go, Navajo Nation! Either cease-and-desist, or collect roiaetyls for the use of your name (only on quality products of which you approve, of course). Same with sports teams that use Native names as mascots. Until recently, the University of North Dakota was paying the Standing Rock Sioux annual roiaetyls to use the name Fighting Sioux , which was a win-win and a source of pride for both parties. Unfortunately for both the Tribe and the university, political correctness put an end to that.

    Ann Puzio: Hi Mary, Need to change to the waiting list for 9/13-20th. I hope this is possible.Also, going to see if I can sign up for the online class, need to check my computer. Thanks ann

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