Weaving in Beauty

The Dyer’s Picnic: Cochineal, Indigo and Madder

The Weaving News: Life in the Community of Navajo Weaving

November 30th 2009

The Dyer’s Picnic: Cochineal, Indigo and Madder

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From left, Ellen, Kathy, Carol, Joy, Francoise, Angie, Mary, Ann and Niccole at the Fiber Factory

Mesa, AZ Last Saturday, I did my semi-annual dye class for the Fiber Factory in Mesa.  We take a full day and use cochineal, indigo, madder and osage orange.  Since this combination includes all of the primary colors, theoretically we can derive any color on the color wheel.   Although both indigo and cochineal were used historically in Navajo weaving, only a few weavers use them today because of the time and expense involved.   D.Y. Begay and Roy Kady, in particular, use these and other non-native dyes to differentiate their work and to extend their control over the color possibilities available to them.

In this class we got a particularly vibrant pot of cochineal and believe you me, those bugs did not live in vain.  This particular batch of cochineal came from Aurora Silk and with some stanous chloride (tin) mordant and citric acid in the bath, the reds, corals and pinks were seemingly inexhaustible.  We also got some beautiful terracotta shades, teals, deep blues and even a couple of impressive purples (cochineal overdyed with indigo).    Of course you can look into the dye pot (see below)!   I’m going to need to get bigger pots for next year because the class is so popular.

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Third or fourth batch of yarn in our cochineal pot.

Hagoshíí (so long for now)

Mary Walker

Weaving in Beauty LLC
1868 E. LaDonna Dr. TempeAZ85283 USA 
 • 602-370-2875
November 9th 2009

2009 Gathering of Weavers Continued

D.Y. Begay demonstrates natural dyes Navajo style. The wool she's holding is dyed with Navajo tea.

Phoenix, AZ Moving down the Heard Museum’s courtyard at the Gathering of Weavers last Saturday, I smelled Navajo tea and then saw D.Y. Begay with her dyepots.  Also called kota or greenthread, the Navajo tea plant is used to make a beverage as well as a dye for wool.  Depending on the type of pot used, the mordant applied and the amount of time that the wool is processed, the plant yields colors ranging from gold to burnt orange.  D.Y. was also processing some brazilwood and walnut hulls.  Weavers who do their own dyes are always exploring the color potential of various plants.  At a lecture that I attended on Saturday afternoon, Jackson Clarke told the audience about arranging to have Ella Rose Perry, a master weaver and dyer, do a demonstration for an event in Utah.  Grandma Perry was way overdue and when she arrived she explained to a worried Jackson that she’d been stopping at various elevations to collect plants that she just could not get at home!   A picture of a section of  one of Grandma Perry’s rugs appears below. The gold color in this rug is Navajo tea.  Look at how skillfully Ella Rose has used the Crystal weave in the striped areas of this rug.

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A section of a Crystal Rug by Ella Rose Perry

Right behind D.Y.’s dye demonstration, Lola Cody was doing a warp the Navajo way.   If you look carefully at the picture below, you’ll see that she’s using her loom as a warping frame and that she’s ensuring that she her warp dimensions are even by using pipes rather than dowels.  What you can’t see as easily is that the warp is (now sit down) hand spun Navajo-churro wool. Fellow weavers, I am here to tell you that this warp was absolutely beautiful.  That warp was so strong and evenly spun.   Lola let me hold the ball  in my hand and I knew that the courtyard was too crowded for me to make a clean getaway, plus there were a bunch of people there who knew me and I want to stay friends with Lola.  I handed the warp back to her.  Yep, I’m going to try spinning my own warp.

Lola Cody demonstrates warping the traditional Navajo way with handspun Navajo-churro warp.

Barbara Jean Teller Ornelas was working on a matched set of four tapestry grade miniature Chief Blankets.  When it’s complete, the set will include two First Phase patterns, a second phase and a Third Phase.

Barbara Jean Teller Ornelas works on her set of four Chief Blanket miniatures.

You’ll want to see Barbara’s work and her loom set up in the picture below.  You’ll see that the First Phase blanket pattern (left) is composed of stripes and the Second Phase adds nine carefully placed blocks that would line up when worn.  The Third Phase piece will have diamond design elements in place of the blocks.  These small pieces will have about 100 weft threads to the inch.

IMG_3002We’ve worked our way down one side of the courtyard, but there are some new weavers for us to meet tomorrow and you’ll also be interested in some of the rugs that Jackson Clarke and Mark Winter discussed in their talks on Saturday afternoon.   Look for that update on Wednesday; I’m helping with a weaving class tomorrow weaving.  If you’re near the Fiber Factory in Mesa, AZ, stop by and say hello.

Hagoshíí (so long for now)

Mary Walker

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    Latest on Thu, 10:46 am

    Mary Walker: I can't give you any idea without having a picture of it.

    Robert Garcia: I have what I think is a Navajo weaving 23" X 35" that was made by ? Mary Rose James? Just wanted to know what its worth.

    Mary Walker: Alas, I don't know of one, but perhaps one of our readers does!

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